While UV filters can be thought of as cheap, disposable things (see our next entry for an instance thereof), one new company is choosing to think of them more sustainably. Significantly less necessary in the era of custom white balance and RAW format, skylight filters now also make great protective filters. ![]() Another alternative is a skylight filter these also date back to the film era and were originally used to warm up images with a pink, orange, or magenta color cast, to prevent them from coming out too blue. You can also consider using one of the best polarizing filters as a protective filter, though this will cost more than a clear or UV filter. This is something of a holdover from the days of film, and is considerably less necessary when using digital sensors, but can still come in handy and certainly doesn't hurt. Some are simply clear pieces of glass that have no other function, but you can also get a UV filter, which is designed to block out unwanted ultraviolet light to reduce the level of haze in an image. Protective filters can serve other purposes too. Lenses are precious, fragile, and often expensive – and if something has to get cracked against the ground, wouldn't you rather it was a $20 filter than the front element of a $1000 lens? Yep. I can get pretty picky about hoods but once Im satisfied Iĭont worry anymore.Simply put, they're one of the most affordable ways to give your lens an extra layer of protection from damage. The threads for reversing the hood on the HS-9 The front element of the 35/2.0 AI is fartherįorward like the 50/1.4 AIS and the HN-3 is just a trifle too The front element of the 50/1.8 AI, AIS and AF(-D) are I take theįilter and hood off for some macro and always for use on aīellows. On the 55/3.5, 2.8 is rather deeply recessed so a short hood isįine when a filter is used for general photography. Though not as good a match for the 50/1.4 AIS. The HN-3 is a pretty good match for the 50/1.8 AIS and AF 50/1.8(D) They always fall of and rollĭown the sidewalk whenever attractive women are present. I wont touch the snap on hoods with two chrome knobs as I really have no complaints about the HS-8 and HS-14 used on the Quicker to take off and slower to put on used the way I use them. ![]() It helps a lot to screw them on a little afterĬlipping them on as if they were a screw on hood. I find that the snap on hoods with only one plastic release work On the lens they're supposed to shield and protect." -Jim "Snap-on hoods just seem to have too tenuous a grip I'd much rather have them drop everything and fix the AF teleconverter issue. But I don't want them to drop everything and fix this issue. Nikon should offer a better hood option for its four current 50mm lenses, no doubt about it. It will protect the lens, and it will offer some flare protection but one will have to accept that its field of view could allow a light source into the flare zone. but for the currently available lenses you can have bouncy-bouncy or clip-n-pray. Some are rubber, some are metal and clip into place, some are metal and screw in. ![]() Over the years there have been many hoods for the wide variety of 50mm lens models in the Nikon F-mount. ![]() Nikon's suggested hoods for my 24-120 and 70-300 zooms are bayonet-mount flexi plastic critters.īack to the 50mm lineup for a moment. Sauce for the 35 and 55 oughta be sauce for the 50 sittin' in the middle, yes?įor some Nikkor lenses, there really is no good metal hood option at all. The HN-3 hood is recommended for the 35/2 AF-D lens and for the 55mm Macro lens. Snap-on hoods just seem to have too tenuous a grip on the lens they're supposed to shield and protect. I like hoods that spin onto the filter threads. If you have either of the manual focus 50mm AIS Nikkors, Nikon will happily sell you a rubber hood or a snap-on metal hood, but not a screw-in hood that fits the filter threads. I'd be delighted if it were.įor the two current autofocus 50mm AF-D Nikkors (and for their non-D series AF predecessors), the only hood Nikon recommends is a rubber one.
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